Excited when it comes to the latest and greatest new wireless and WiFi dog barriers on the market? Considered buying one to incorporate a pet in your yard? Before you do… there are galore crucial constituents you will need to make queer note of when determining if a wireless dog fence is right for you.
On the upside… wireless and WiFi dog barriers are easy to install, fast to set up, no wires to inter and they’re highly portable. Wireless dog barriers are idealisti for flat plots of land like we have here in Wilmington, NC and huge country settings without a good deal of obstructions, but they’re not idealisti for all localities.
They are without doubt quicker to set up than a established underground pet fence because there are no wires to inter or attach to any fixed objects. To program your WiFi wireless dog fence, you place the wireless dog fence transmitter in the house, walk the dog fence receiver out to the outer perimeter boundary you desire, return to the base unit and save your settings. That does sound gorgeous easy right? “Easy” I’ve came across is a relative thing when it comes to new technology.
If everything goes well for the duration of set up… yes it’s easy. Setting up my home computer wireless router was supposed to be comparatively easy in conception too, but it took a little trial and error, a good deal of “trouble shooting” guide reading, and scheme reloading to get it to work consistently. My Vonage internet phone set up was easy theoretically if all went well too, but it took a couple of attempts and still to this day (for whatsoever reason) I need to reboot the system to get it up and running again or I don’t have proper service. My wired electronic dog fence? …I just plugged it in and started training the dogs.
Because the wireless dog fence requires no buried wires, they are in fact, highly portable. (Underground dog fence transmitters may be moved from home to home as well, but you do need to have a second set of wire buried at the new location, or at least secured to the ground with landscape staples there. The dog fence transmitters themselves nevertheless may be moved plainly by unplugging the antennae wires and power)
The wireless dog barriers work differently than the underground dog barriers in a lot of indispensable ways. Unlike the electronic dog barriers that use buried wires laid out in a pattern that is customized to your yard and terrain, the wireless dog barriers have a base station that sends out a signal in a simple circle pattern. You will have to place the transmitter in the center of this circle. Your dog or cat wears a receiver that constantly searches for this circular signal. If the receiver your pet is wearing loses the signal for any reason, the dog receives a warning tone and then a correction stimulation. Ideally this only happens when your dog leaves the circle you’ve determined is his/her safe zone.
Be sure the wireless or WiFi model you’re taking into account is designed to NOT rectify for the duration of power outage, or if battery back up unit fails. Remember, your dog receives a correction zap any time his collar receiver loses the base stations signal. Check also that there is a fast fail-safe shut off feature. Some shut off only after up to half a minute of repeated corrections! And make sure you charge the batteries each week if it’s the rechargeable variety. They in general take 6-8 hours to recharge. If the base unit looses power, you may have only a half a day of receiver power because the dog’s receiver will go into high gear to find that base station.
Because of their distinguishable design, wireless dog barriers are not practical in all situations.
Since most urban and suburban properties are rectangular, square, or irregular in shape, a circular safe zone for your dog may not be ideal. If you want your dog to be competent to use the majority of your property, you may want a dog fence that may be laid out in straight lines as well as curves, circular patterns and around corners following your property lines.
Wired dog barriers may be set up in closely any shape and may likewise include further and added “exclusion zones” such as a pool, flower garden or potting shed in the center of the yard to grant the dog full access to the entire yard, but not to these subzones. Additional zones may likewise be invented with wired dog barriers using just one transmitter to protect your dogs if they escape from the front door of the home accidentally; and also protects him/her in the backyard, but does not concede them to run around the house.
Another major considerateness is the integrity of the signal.
Wireless units are idealisti for flat yards without some obstructions. In order to work, the transmitter in the house will have to be within a “line of sight” of the dog. If you property has any steep hills or ditches, the dog could decrease rapidly from the range of the base station and receive a zap even if he’s still in your yard.
According to makers instructions, no radio signal may pass through metal, or may be reflected by any huge metal object such as automobiles, water tanks, metal studs, metal buildings etc. The closer the metal object is to the base station, the dandier the potential for not wanted interference and this will result in the reduction of performance of these WiFi units.
Here are a few other downsides to keep in mind if you’re taking into account a wireless purchase:
In summary, wireless and WiFi units are idealisti for large, flat properties without some obstructions. They work best if you want to limit your pet to a circular area surrounding your home. Other positives are that they’re comparatively easy to set up, fast to install, and are highly mobile.
The downsides are that wireless and WiFi systems lack layout flexibility, signal reliability and have fixed coverage areas. If you live in an urban or suburban setting with a rectangular plot of land, or have a pool, flower garden or require other “exclusion areas”, a buried wire system may be the way to go. If you have a yard larger than a 90 to 200 foot radius circle will cover effectively, or it has uneven terrain, trees, outbuildings or other obstructions, a wireless outdoor dog fence is less than desirable.
Most helpful customer reviews
39 of 40 people found the following review helpful.
A while back people began moving into a new adjoining subdivision, and also began letting their dogs roam freely despite city ordinances. Of course, it was too much for my dogs to see other dogs roaming freely where they couldn’t go. Soon they started getting out and learning how others got around fences. I finally had to chain them inside my fence, to keep them home – after having never had any problem like this from them in the past. Of course, the cats went everywhere and the dogs wanted to follow them, but mostly only because they are protective of them. At least the cats know to stay in the yard when other dogs are around.
I tried various training, changes to my fence, a cattle fence with a charger, and nothing worked very well. Desperate, I decided a shock delived at the appropriate time was the only thing that would work. I was right, but it took a strong one to penetrate my dogs thick fur, and I was having to stay with them to administer it. After a week, they realized I had to be there to stop them from leaving, so I again had to chain them. The male was the most stubborn and I was eventually able to unchain the female, but anytime I took him off the chain both of them would leave.
Then I happened across this Petsafe Stubborn Dog In-Ground Radio Fence System at Amazon.com. I learned It was capable of covering all of my chain-linked fenced area and purchased it. The supplied 500′ of fence wire wasn’t sufficient, but I had access to better and less expensive wiring. I ended up tying 1500′ of Ethernet cable (I had somehow ended up with years before) to the bottom of my chainlink fence and finished the distance with RG-6 cable purchased at a local Lowes. After soldering all the Ethernet cable wires but one to the center wire of the RG-6 cabling, I connected the cable ground and the remaining Ethernet cable wire together and insulated my connections well with electrical tape. This gave me the one continuos ground loop I needed – and also a means of grounding the cable better against electrical storm surge in the proximity wire. Where it crossed the drive at my powered privacy gate, I buried the cable in a steel pipe and covered it with concrete.
I next set up the controls inside my home and adjusted the unit and collar using the provided test tool and 9 volt battery provided for the collar. Following the instructions, setup was easy and I set the boundary width control knob at 7 where my dogs would be stopped about three feet short of the fence itself. Since I had used about 2200 feet of wire, I set the units boundary control switch on its side to C. Greater than 2400 feet of wire requires setting A and less than 1300 feet is setting B.
I then went around and checked every point of the perimeter, and found the signal was strong and uniform everywhere. The collar has five settings levels for training and use. I set mine to level three and placed the collar on the male with a leash and walked him to the fence. At about three feet from the fence, he looked at me a little puzzled, but walked right on up to the fence. Irritated, I checked the collar was making proper contact and turned it to level 5. This time he walked within the three foot range and he yelped, and I instantly pulled him back away from the fence, consoled him and told him to stay back from the fence as we walked near it. We walked the entire fence, with me deliberately having him get close enough for a shock at different points. By the end of our walk, he wanted to stay away from the fence. I lowered the collar level to three and turned him loose. Within five minutes I caught him leaving. Okay, back to five. I turned him loose again and this time I saw some other dogs approaching from the other side of my fence. My male of course headed toward them. But, this time he abruptly stopped just short of the fence and yelped. I called him away and told him he would get a shock every time he got too close to that fence. Five hours later, he tried it again three times at different places. Eventually, over several days he got the idea. I lowered the level again, but he wouldn’t go close to the fence even if I tempted him with a treat.
The next day the female left. When she came back, I tied the male and put his collar on her. One jolt at level three was enough for her as we walked the fence – and she realized she would be yelping if she got near the fence, just like her brother had. After that, the collar warning tone and vibration setting was enough for her. Smart dog, she hasn’t left again – even after I removed the collar and placed it back on the male and removed his chain.
I forgot to turn it back up, and again I caught him leaving. I had to put it all the way back on five for the hard head before he got the idea to again stay back when he heard the warning tone – but he kept trying it. Only after several months training was I able to lower the shock setting on him again, but at least I was finally able to start decreasing the level. I had hoped I could remove the collar altogether one day, but my one hard head still leaves if I set it under level three – maybe one day. At least the female no longer attempts to leave, and the collar is keeping the male in. But, I do have to keep check on the collars battery and replace it when it starts getting low.
The collar has two metal prongs that deliver the shock. You can order a longer set of them for better contact, but I just continued using the shorter ones that came in the package. I also haven’t shaved any hair from my dog for better contact with them, and I don’t intend to. He needs to wear the collar all the time, and I don’t want him to get any irritatation from it. So far he hasn’t had any signs of skin irritation and I don’t expect that to happen.
The really great thing is both my dogs can again enjoy freely roaming the six acres with the ten cats they treat like their babies.
After five months of use, the Petsafe unit has been no trouble and is continuing to do what it was needed for. I’m still hoping to eventually turn the collar down to level one where there is just a warning tone and vibration. But, I’m wondering if I’ll ever get it there and still keep this stubborn dog of mine in the yard. I guarantee it wouldn’t work at all with this male Alaskan Spitz, and only maybe with the female – if there were no chain link fence. But, it does work in combination with my fence, and it is keeping my dogs inside and away from harm. That’s a huge relief not worrying about them now.
With the ability to use the number 1 setting to only deliver a tone and vibration using the collar, I believe this would be a good solution anyone could use with their pets – especially if theirs aren’t very stubborn. Before I had these two Alaskan Spitz, I had another for many years. She never left the yard even if the gate was open. All I had to do with her was tell her this was her yard and to stay away from the gate in front. I really believe a little training using this unit with a ground wire alone, and the tone and vibration setting on the collar would have been enough to show her the boundary and keep her at home – without any chain link fencing. But, I put the chain link up to protect her and all the rest of my pets and property. I never had any idea the chain link wouldn’t be enough one day. At least I found Petsafe.
After following an Amazon “recommended” link, I saw a review on the PetSafe RF-1010 transmitter used with this containment system. After reading it, I took a look at the circuit board to verify the obviously missing protection circuitry within the unit. Probably all that has saved my unit are the facts I used a separate ground on the perimeter wire and a $12 TII 325-2M outside-grounded signal circuit protector where the wires enter my home, normally used by phone companies, and have the unit power adapter plugged into a GFCI protected wall outlet. If you use this unit, I strongly urge you to use such protection for longer lifespan against voltage line surges and spikes in the RF containment loop and power supply.
Noticeably missing, but provided for on the circuit board, were an outside ground, two diode type transient voltage suppressors, and a fast blow fuse and holder. Still, weak protection at best – but missing.
14 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
23 of 27 people found the following review helpful.
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Filed under: Cheap Fencing
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